International forum of Rimini (Italy)

Lace with the spindles of Pescocostanzo

Historical description
Bobin lace, here called "Trina" was introduced in Pescocostanzo by craftsmen from Lombardy around 1600. Since, the women have continued to practise this art from generation to generation, up to present days.
The lace school was created in 1992 and located in the ancient Palazzo Fanzago, garantees the continuation of this heritage with represents an economic resource and above all cultural identity.

Technical Description
For a long time, imagination had made its appearance in interpretation of the suggestive drawings. In particular in the jewels as earrings in filigrames, completely typical of Pescocostanzo. Laces of 15th are also reproduced.

In detail an impressive tombolo for this lacemaker of Pescocostanzo.

Embroidery on tulle of Panicalensis

A fan in "Lierse", at least I believed it, was on the table. In fact, while discussing with Paola Mattencci and Giuliana Marini, of the province "Umbria" close to Perugia, I understood that it of it was nothing.
Indeed, they make initially their drawing that they cover with a glazed paper, then above the mechanical tulle which one fixes using some points on the owner. Then, it is the embroidery on tulle with the needle, quite simply. I already spoke you about the "tulle poinct" which one also carries out with the needle on tulle, but here, the result is completely different bus one embroiders while following the drawing on tulle. One can also use a cordonnet to emphasize the reasons. It was something again, very interesting to discover.

Historical description
The tulle embroidery of panicale is derived from antique local tradition as shown by the pieces produced in th couvents and still preserved in our churches.
This technique widespread in the years 1800 after the invention of mechanical loom for tulle in 1809, was a fast way of producing pieces similar to needle lace.  In the Twenties, the method was re-examined and improved by Anita Belleschi Grifoni. Anita based a school of embroidery on tulle named "Ars Panicalensi". That allowed many inhabitants of Panicale to practise this art nouveau.

Technical Description
The execution of the embroidery requires initially the preparation of the work: to build the drawing on a support (oil-paper), to pose tulle on this drawing, and then to review embroidery to the needle with various points in order to reproduce the required effect.
The flowers, medallions, birds of the paradise, volutes... are the principal reasons for the "Ars Panicalensis".

Merletto Al tombolo di Pescocostanzo  Detail	Ars Panicalensis Ricamo has mano known Détail tulle

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The lace of Offida

We met our friends of Offida. Elvira (on the left) and Mariella (on the right). They work both with the museum of Offida, but I you will speak again about it very soon.
Here composition of their stand centered on the marriage. On left, a choice for the cushions for alliances, with dimensioned, the unit veils, shoes, gloves of course the lace whole. Then, a whole of "candy box" for dragees, the fine linen room and finally one finishes by the handkerchief of marriage. Elvira makes broad and long lace cloth, Mariella, an "Ancient" silk lace. What struck me, it is that lace is carried out with a utility aim: cloths, tablecloths, bed-spread, curtains... whereas for the majority of the lacemakers, lace is rather framed or preserved preciously.

In Offida, in this moment, it is the "race with the range". Indeed, the topic of the 5th annual contest was announced on May 1. The judgements are given on August 1. In short, 3 months to carry out a new range to gain the "Gold Spindle". Only, the native lacemakers of Offida can take part in this contest. But when one knows that about the 5000 inhabitants of the village, one does not count less than 2000 lacemakers...........

Historical description
The bobbin lace of Offida acn traded back to 1400's, as evidenced by a shirt of San giacomo of Marca preserved still today. From this period, and the following century, religious lace held a very important place in Offida.
In 1728, to greatly increase the use of local products, a petition was send with the Pope Benedict XIII to prevent the introduction of lace from other localities into Papal state. In 1800 the lace achieved its highest quality but it was only in th following century that the lace of Offida became recognised in the European and extra-european markets.

Technical Description
Before beginning work, fixing on the trade the paperboard with the pricking and the drawing of lace to be reproduced. Work consists of 2 movements: to cross and twist. These two repetitive movements make the last one and the 1/2 last. It results from this from other points imaginations. The various points carried out are "it Punto Rinascimento, it Punto Venezia ED it Pizzo Antico".

Fusello d' Oro	Detail